Meeting John Besh, Eating at Restaurant August and Recipe for Brown Butter Fig Tart
John Besh, Barnaby Dorfman of Foodista, and future foodie (Photo courtesy of Foodista) Although everyone I mentioned it to, leading up to my interview with John Besh, said he’s such a great guy, I still wasn’t prepare for how completely impressed I would be with him. He’s charismatic, warm and thoughtful, and (icing on the cake) tall with boyish good looks tempered by a tiny bit of gray that’s beginning to touch his temples. Chef Besh spoke to the attendees of the International Food Bloggers Conference after our Saturday night wine pairing dinner at the Monteleone. I had a chance to observe him out in the hallway before he took the stage. Everyone wanted to greet him. Women hugged him, the men shook his hand, he was even kissing babies. When I got the chance to speak with him at his flagship Restaurant August, the Monday after the conference, I said to him, “You should run for mayor. You’re such a natural.” “I’ll leave that to Mitch,” he said, laughing. “He’s doing a great job. And Ray. I really liked Ray, too.” And such a diplomat, too. My cousin Paul, who luckily called me just as I was preparing to go to lunch, and I decided on the 3 course pre-fixe lunch for only $20.11, an incredibly great deal, but as we looked over the menu perusing our options, our server came to the table, and said, “Order lightly. The chef is going to send out several items for you to taste.” We were served an incredible array of amazing food. When we were finished-more like when we just couldn’t eat any more- Paul looked at me and said, “I have never had a meal like this!” We began with two amuses bouches- the first a Fish Mousse (served in a delicate eggshell) with Truffle Sabayon and Bowfin Caviar, the second an Asparagus served (again) with Truffle Sabayon and a (barely) Poached Quail Egg. Asparagus with Truffle Sabayon and Poached Quail Egg Then we were served the first course of our prix fix menu- for Paul, a Salad of Grilled Chilton Peaches, Aceto Balsamico, Basil Pesto, Bacon Crisp and Whipped Ricotta. For me- this luscious Pâté de Campagne of La Provence (Besh’s own hog farm) Pork with Pickled Wild Mushrooms and Seasonal Marmalades (I especially liked the peach), served with thick slices of toasted Brioche. Then 3 hot appetizers- a Green Curry Bisque with Gulf Shrimp, Potstickers and local Heirloom Chile Peppers (Paul pronounced this his favorite dish), a Sweet Corn Agnolotti with Chanterelles, Petit Tomatoes and Field Peas, and a handmade Potato Gnocchi tossed with chunks of Blue Crab and Black Truffle. Truffles- again! I thought of my L.A. food blogging buddy and truffle junkie, Erika Kerekes, knowing she would love eating here. Corn Agnolotti And now for our entrées: Pan Seared Gulf Sheepshead with Silverqueen Corn Custard, Succotash (that’s what the menu called it, but I saw all sorts of yummy and unexpected things like black eyed peas, summer squash and figs in the mix) and Tomato Vinaigrette; Crispy Mangalista Pork Belly with Creole Cream Cheese Malfatti (a kind of gnocchi), Mustard Greens (Paul said -these are not your mother’s mustard greens), Tomato Confit and Sauce Blanquette, and Pan Seared Louisiana Blackfish with Tarragon Pistou (which...
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