Devilled Chicken Thighs
A few weeks ago, this photo of my dinner, that I posted on Facebook, garnered quite a bit of attention, and rightfully so. It’s beautiful to look at, making for a great dinner party dish. It also happens to be one of those really luscious and soul satisfying dishes. But what makes it devilled, several asked. Yes, people knew of that southern classic, devilled eggs, but didn’t see the connection. I would also add that devilled crab is another popular New Orleans, and greater Gulf Coast region, dish. So I did a bit of research to find out exactly what it is that makes a dish devilled. It turns out, putting the “devil” in a dish, is as simple as adding a bit of spice. in the case of devilled eggs, it can mean mustard, which is always an ingredient, and a bit of cayenne, hot sauce or hot paprika – even occasionally a touch of horseradish. Another southern classic, devilled ham, also includes a bit of cayenne, and sometimes mustard. In devilled crabs, there’s definitely a bit of cayenne. This savory and piquant chicken dish only includes a good Dijon mustard (definitely a main player), as well as a pinch of cayenne . Although the dish looks like a lot of work, it can be broken down into steps. The chicken is marinated a day before. The breadcrumbs – with that really great extra step of tossing them in the browned butter which adds so much flavor – can be done a little bit ahead, and the blanched leeks, that Ms. Goin serves them over, can be made a day or two ahead of time. Of course, the chicken things can be served without the Blanched Leeks , but it really does add a lot to the dish. I served mine also with a Purée of Roasted Sweet Potatoes on the side. Devilled Chicken Thighs – adapted from Suzanne Goin’s Sunday Suppers at Lucques 8 chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat 1 medium onion, thinly sliced, @ 3/4 cup 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 2 chiles de arbol, thinly sliced 2 dried bay leaves, crumbled 2/3 cup dry white wine mixed with 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 3/4 cups Panko style breadcrumbs 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 1/2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped 1 large shallots, about 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon, diced 1 scant cup Dijon mustard 1 egg 1 1/2 teaspoon fresh tarragon, chopped A pinch of cayenne @ 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Place the chicken thighs in a large bowl or Ziplock bag along with the sliced onion, 2 tablespoons of the thyme, the sliced chiles, the bay leaves and 1/4 cup of the wine/vinegar mixture. Toss to coat the chicken well (cover with plastic wrap if in a bowl) to refrigerate overnight. Place the breadcrumbs in a large bowl. Heat a medium to large saucepan over medium heat for 1 minute, then add 3 tablespoons of butter, and cook until it’s brown and smells nutty. Using a rubber spatula, scrape the browned butter over the bread crumbs. Wait a minute until it cools slightly, then add the parsley and 1 tablespoon of the thyme, tossing well. Remove the chicken thighs from...
read more“Bronzed” Salmon Tacos
“Bronzed” Salmon Tacos I left behind a very large dining room in my New Orleans house – a room that was part of a large open great room area. While there are great features to my new house, the dining room is, well – cramped, in my opinion, although a friend I was walking through the house, recently, corrected me. “It’s intimate”, she said. The consolation prize is that I have a huge wrap around outdoor deck, which serves as my space for entertaining, now. Fortunately, California has a sunny, temperate climate – at least for most of the year. Late spring, however, is when my entertaining gets ramped up. I began my entertaining season a couple or so weeks ago, inviting a few friends for lunch. I wanted to serve something that seemed a bit special, but was still very easy for me. After all, I’m not that young anymore, and the more I travel along in life, the simpler I want something like entertaining to be. Giving it a good bit of deliberation, I settled on “Bronzed” Salmon Tacos. “Bronzed” – a word I heard coined many years back by Susan Spicer of Bayona Restaurant fame – a lighter take on Paul Prudhomme’s iconic “Blackened” fish, and a technique that won’t set off your home’s smoke alarm. When Prudhomme introduced the concept, he suggested “blackening” your fish outdoors, as the process produced so much smoke. I served them with Black Beans, a Mexican Rice Pilaf with Corn and Rajas and an Arugula Caesar Salad, with a Mixed Berry Cobbler, for dessert. I think everyone felt it quite special, indeed. Tacos Bronzed Salmon Tacos @ 1 pound salmon filet cut into 1 1/2 – 2 inch pieces2 tablespoons unsalted butter, meltedPaul Prudhomme’s Shrimp Seasoning 12 – 3 inch Corn Tortillas Cilantro Lime Dressing * Melt the butter in the microwave in a glass baking dish.Toss the salmon squares in the butter and sprinkle liberally with the Shrimp Seasoning. Then sauté them in a hot pan until the spices darken on the outside, but leaving the salmon just barely cooked at the center, about 1 minute.Meanwhile place the tortillas wrapped in a dampened paper towel in the microwave to warm and soften them – about 20-30 seconds. I find every microwave’s power level is different, so check them to make sure they don’t get completely nuked.Place a tortilla, or two, if they’re very thin, for each taco on a platter. Place a teaspoon or so of the Cilantro Lime Dressing on the tortillas, then top with a piece or two of the salmon. Let the guests pick up and garnish their own tacos, to taste. To Garnish: @ 1 cup Shredded Cabbage (I shred it on a Japanese Mandoline, a very handy little tool)Pico de GalloGuacamole *One of my guests commented on how well the piquancy of the Cilantro Lime Dressing complimented the rich salmon. I...
read moreSweet Potato Purée with Pecan Praline Topping- Part 1 in a Series on Sweet Potatoes
When browsing Epicurious’ Top 10 Food Trends for 2010, I noticed sweet potatoes made their list. Well, some of us have always loved sweet potatoes, and I’m showing my love with this fantastic recipe for Sweet Potato Purée with Pecan Praline Topping.
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