Devilled Chicken Thighs
A few weeks ago, this photo of my dinner, that I posted on Facebook, garnered quite a bit of attention, and rightfully so. It’s beautiful to look at, making for a great dinner party dish. It also happens to be one of those really luscious and soul satisfying dishes. But what makes it devilled, several asked. Yes, people knew of that southern classic, devilled eggs, but didn’t see the connection. I would also add that devilled crab is another popular New Orleans, and greater Gulf Coast region, dish. So I did a bit of research to find out exactly what it is that makes a dish devilled. It turns out, putting the “devil” in a dish, is as simple as adding a bit of spice. in the case of devilled eggs, it can mean mustard, which is always an ingredient, and a bit of cayenne, hot sauce or hot paprika – even occasionally a touch of horseradish. Another southern classic, devilled ham, also includes a bit of cayenne, and sometimes mustard. In devilled crabs, there’s definitely a bit of cayenne. This savory and piquant chicken dish only includes a good Dijon mustard (definitely a main player), as well as a pinch of cayenne . Although the dish looks like a lot of work, it can be broken down into steps. The chicken is marinated a day before. The breadcrumbs – with that really great extra step of tossing them in the browned butter which adds so much flavor – can be done a little bit ahead, and the blanched leeks, that Ms. Goin serves them over, can be made a day or two ahead of time. Of course, the chicken things can be served without the Blanched Leeks , but it really does add a lot to the dish. I served mine also with a Purée of Roasted Sweet Potatoes on the side. Devilled Chicken Thighs – adapted from Suzanne Goin’s Sunday Suppers at Lucques 8 chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat 1 medium onion, thinly sliced, @ 3/4 cup 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 2 chiles de arbol, thinly sliced 2 dried bay leaves, crumbled 2/3 cup dry white wine mixed with 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 3/4 cups Panko style breadcrumbs 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 1/2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped 1 large shallots, about 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon, diced 1 scant cup Dijon mustard 1 egg 1 1/2 teaspoon fresh tarragon, chopped A pinch of cayenne @ 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Place the chicken thighs in a large bowl or Ziplock bag along with the sliced onion, 2 tablespoons of the thyme, the sliced chiles, the bay leaves and 1/4 cup of the wine/vinegar mixture. Toss to coat the chicken well (cover with plastic wrap if in a bowl) to refrigerate overnight. Place the breadcrumbs in a large bowl. Heat a medium to large saucepan over medium heat for 1 minute, then add 3 tablespoons of butter, and cook until it’s brown and smells nutty. Using a rubber spatula, scrape the browned butter over the bread crumbs. Wait a minute until it cools slightly, then add the parsley and 1 tablespoon of the thyme, tossing well. Remove the chicken thighs from...
read moreSpanish Tortilla (not Frittata!)
I was missing my Spanish breakfasts this morning, so I took the time to make a Spanish tortilla (with some help from José Andrés). This tortilla is everywhere in Spain – on breakfast buffets, at tapas, served as appetizers. In fact, the first one I tasted in Spain was on a tapas tour in Barcelona, at the beginning of my trip. It also appeared as an hors d’ouevre at the heavy hors d’oeuvre cocktail party that closed out my tour of southern Spain. As I spied it arriving at our table on the tapas tour, I said- “Oh, the frittata” – I mean, I knew it was a common Spanish dish – and got a sideways look from my tour guide leader. “No, tortilla!”, he said. It was one of several indications I got over the next few weeks of the similarity of, but also, rivalry between, Spanish and Italian cuisine. I got an even bigger sideways look, and a bit of a sigh when I said I preferred prosciutto to Iberico ham. Ah well… I often make frittatas, but finish them in the oven, rather than on the stovetop. This method of flipping them onto the plate, and finishing them stovetop, produces a fluffier “omelette” if you will (aha! French, too!), without the addition of any cream or milk, which I often add to baked frittata mixtures. This is a simple and satisfying breakfast, and only slightly more time consuming than an American style omelette. Slices can be saved and served as a lunch or tapas style dish later in the day, too, but it’s really best served immediately out of the pan. Spanish Tortilla This recipe serves a very hearty breakfast for one, but can serve two to three, if served on a breakfast buffet, as we had most mornings on tour. My Spanish breakfasts generally included a slice of tortilla, a couple of slices of ham, a croissant, a wedge or two of cheese and maybe some fruit or tomato. 1/2 cups oil – I used a mixture of extra virgin olive oil and canola 1 medium large potato – about 1/2 pound, peeled and thinly sliced (I used a mandoline for even slices) 1/2 large brown onion, thinly sliced, about 1/2 cup 4 large eggs Kosher salt (@ 1-2 teaspoons) and freshly ground black pepper to taste Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Dip a tiny edge of a potato slice in the oil to make sure it’s hot enough. Then add half the potato slices. Work in two or three batches so that the potatoes aren’t crowded. Drain the slices on paper towels, then sprinkle them with kosher salt. Spoon about 2-3 tablespoons of the oil into a sauté pan. Add the onion slices then sauté them, over medium heat, until slightly caramelized, about 6-8 minutes. Lift them out of the oil with a strainer or slotted spoon, then place then in a bowl. Break the eggs into a mixing bowl, and whisk them until mixed but still retaining “their thick gelatinous quality” (as Jose Andres says). Whisk in about 1 teaspoon of the salt and some black pepper. Then add the potato and onion slices to the bowl. Add a tablespoon or two of the frying oil, over medium heat,...
read morePiperade
Piperade with Grilled TriTip Roast I don’t remember where I first came across it, but I’ve always been intrigued by the word Piperade. I’ve been aware of the word for quite a while, but it was brought to my attention again, when I recently began browsing through a collection of Spanish recipes. Just what is Piperade, you might be asking. Piperade or Piperada, depending on whether you are on the French or Spanish side of the Basque region, is a typical Basque dish prepared with sautéed multi-colored bell peppers and onions, with added tomatoes and Piment D’Espelette, a pepper unique to the region. Multi-colored peppers, onions and tomatoes – well, that’s right up my alley! So into the kitchen I went – after seeking out the special key ingredient- the Espelette pepper, which is, fortunately, available on Amazon or at specialty spice companies like Penzey’s. Wow! How can I say this? When I popped a first taste into my mouth, my immediate thought was, it tastes of the very essence of summer. I served it alongside a grilled TriTip roast. I also think it would be great served alongside a grilled fish like sea bass or swordfish – even grilled shrimp, (btw, the Piperade and TriTip leftovers made a great sandwich along with some Aioli smeared on a baguette). It may be served as a condiment, as well – say on a charcuterie board, and it is often used as an omelet filling, but as I found out when I popped spoonfuls of it into my mouth, it’s delicious all on its own, with only a few slices of toasted baguette, alongside. Happy summer and Buen Provecho! Piperade 1/2 each large red, yellow and orange bell pepper* 1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil1 medium onion, thinly slice, about 1 cup3-4 large garlic clove, @ 1 heaping tablespoon3 Roma tomatoes, peeled, seeded and roughly chopped1 teaspoon sugar1 teaspoon coarse salt1/2 teaspoon oregano and thyme1 1/2 teaspoon Piment d’EspeletteA bit of sea salt, to taste *And green if you like, which is traditional because of the colors of the Spanish flag. I just generally prefer the red and yellow ones over green peppers . Add the olive oil to a large sauté* pan and heat over medium heat. Add the peppers and cook for about 2-3 minutes, until they begin to soften, then add the onions, stirring them in. Cook until the onions begin to caramelize.Add the tomatoes. Then add the sugar, thyme, oregano, Piment d’Espelette and garlic, stirring them in, and adding a little oil if necessary.Continue to cook the mixture until it it is quite soft. Stir in the salt to taste If the pan is not large enough, do this in two steps so that everything caramelizes just a bit. Buon...
read moreNew Orleans Style White Beans and Rice
New Orleans Style White Beans and Rice While many are enjoying barbecue this first holiday of the summer season, I took a different tack. I have nothing against barbecue (believe me!), but having just returned home mid-weekend from a short road trip, I’m spending the day home, alone, enjoying the quiet and catching up on things like laundry and paying bills. Because of that – and being inspired by the spiraling high prices at the grocery store – I decided to cook from my very full freezer (even though I now cook mostly for one, and not a large group, keeping a full larder and freezer is a habit I just can’t seem to break). I turned to a New Orleans favorite – beans and rice. I had purchased a combo multi-pack of Camellia Rose Red and White Beans online earlier this year – and yes, I keep them in the freezer – a trick I learned from a long time family friend. Camellia Rose beans are very high quality, a local to Louisiana specialty product. They arrive very fresh and even though they are dried, freezing them helps to maintain that freshness. I’ve kept them in the cabinet for long periods, and trust me – they really do lose something. Now I know some of you may be asking: New Orleans White Beans and Rice? Yes! While Red Beans and Rice have become so closely associated in the collective consciousness of the city (perhaps because they were Louis Armstrong’s favorite and he regularly signed off all his correspondence with “Red Beans and Ricely Yours”), traditionally we have eaten several types of beans and rice. In fact, my favorite weather gal in the city, would, as each French Quarter Fest season rolled around, wax poetic about the Butter Beans sold the the Fest by K-Paul’s, Paul Prudhomme’s iconic, erstwhile restaurant. And my Uncle Reiss has always favored white beans. He waxes poetic about the white beans his mother – my grandmother – used to cook. I was introduced to them by a take out joint near my house in the Algiers section of New Orleans. Chubbies sold the best damn Fried Chicken Sandwich – there was often a long line of people waiting for their order – and my favorite side to the sandwich was their White Beans and Rice. So today, I sit – doing my tasks, and taking in the smoky, onion-y goodness that fills the air as they simmer on the stove, awaiting the moment when the Camellia Rose beans give up their creaminess (they really are creamy), and are ready to eat. Eating from my freezer, saving myself a few bucks and revisiting a New Orleans favorite this holiday weekend. What could be better than that? New Orleans Style White Beans and Rice 1 pound white navy beans1/2 large onion, diced1 1/2 stalks celery, sliced3 cloves of garlic4 ounces smoked ham hock, diced4 ounces smoked sausage, sliced (I like Hillshire Farms – it’s closest to the traditional smoked sausage that’s used)1 teaspoon dried thyme2-3 large bay leaves1 teaspoon freshly ground combined white and black pepper1/2 jalapeño, seeded and finely dicedA healthy pinch of cayenne4 -5 cups chicken broth or combination broth and waterSliced scallions for garnish Add all the ingredients to a large pot, and...
read moreRoasted Corn Grits
Roasted Corn Grits My father, being born and raised in New Orleans, continued to enjoy grits all his life. Even after many years of living in Los Angeles, he would often come home from his office at midday and make himself a bowl of grits for lunch. In my early New Orleans childhood years, I ate tons of grits – grits with scrambled eggs, grits with Vienna sausages, grits with Velveeta cheese, grits with sliced wieners, grits with chili. By the time I was an adolescent, I’d had my fill of grits! But now, grits has grown up. They’re cooked with lots of cream, with all kinds of fancy cheeses – like Mascarpone – and herbs added. They’re sometimes served with downright sophisticated items – shrimp, crawfish etoufée – one of my favorite brunch spots here even serves aged Cheddar cheesy sage-herbed grits with shredded short ribs topped by a fried egg. Crawfish Etoufée with Roasted Corn Grits Another of my favorite lunch spots, Zea’s Rotisserie offers Roasted Corn Grits as a side dish on their meat focused menu. I like to have them with my baby back barbecued ribs. Fortunately for us, Zea’s has shared their simple, but decadent, recipe. Roasted Corn Grits 2 cups chicken broth 2 cups heavy cream ¼ stick butter 1 cup golden corn 1 cup yellow grits (not instant) Green onions for garnish Lightly butter or oil a corn cob and grill over charcoal or open fire until slightly blackened, or sauté in olive oil quickly in a hot pan. Cool corn and cut kernels from cob with sharp knife. Bring chicken broth to a boil. Add heavy cream and return to boil. Slowly whisk in the grits and then the corn. Reduce heat to a simmer, cover, and cook 5 to 6 minutes. Then whisk in the butter, and add more chicken broth and/or cream if you’d like to loosen the grits up a bit more. Add salt and pepper to taste. Garnish with thinly sliced green onions. Yield: 4...
read moreCoping with This Stay at Home Order – Home Fries at Home
These home fries are the old fashioned variety I ate so many of in the corner Greek coffee shops in New York City, made with russet potatoes – and sautéed onions, cooked in butter – lots of butter. Serious comfort food.
read moreBraised Oxtails
Braised oxtails are one of those French peasant dishes my mother used to make occasionally when I was a child, but that I rarely see nowadays. They are certainly worth the time and effort of seeking them out and putting in the time.
read moreMy Mexican Adventure Part 4 – Casa Carmelita, Tlaxcala and Beyond
A longing for Mexican food – and a pull for an adventure – led me to sign up for a culinary vacation exploring the home cooking of Puebla. A private car taking me from Mexico City landed me at Casa Carmelita, run by Jon, an American expat, and Esthela, his Mexican wife.
read moreMy Mexican Adventure – Part 2- Valle de Guadalupe
Our day started with a stop at Dona Esthela’s for a hearty Mexican breakfast, a trip to a tiny local farmer’s market, then it was off to find the wineries.
read moreCrab and Sausage Stew aka Gumbo
When the temps dropped last week, it was time for gumbo – this time John Besh’s Crab and Sausage Stew, basically a variation of gumbo.
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