Devilled Chicken Thighs
A few weeks ago, this photo of my dinner, that I posted on Facebook, garnered quite a bit of attention, and rightfully so. It’s beautiful to look at, making for a great dinner party dish. It also happens to be one of those really luscious and soul satisfying dishes. But what makes it devilled, several asked. Yes, people knew of that southern classic, devilled eggs, but didn’t see the connection. I would also add that devilled crab is another popular New Orleans, and greater Gulf Coast region, dish. So I did a bit of research to find out exactly what it is that makes a dish devilled. It turns out, putting the “devil” in a dish, is as simple as adding a bit of spice. in the case of devilled eggs, it can mean mustard, which is always an ingredient, and a bit of cayenne, hot sauce or hot paprika – even occasionally a touch of horseradish. Another southern classic, devilled ham, also includes a bit of cayenne, and sometimes mustard. In devilled crabs, there’s definitely a bit of cayenne. This savory and piquant chicken dish only includes a good Dijon mustard (definitely a main player), as well as a pinch of cayenne . Although the dish looks like a lot of work, it can be broken down into steps. The chicken is marinated a day before. The breadcrumbs – with that really great extra step of tossing them in the browned butter which adds so much flavor – can be done a little bit ahead, and the blanched leeks, that Ms. Goin serves them over, can be made a day or two ahead of time. Of course, the chicken things can be served without the Blanched Leeks , but it really does add a lot to the dish. I served mine also with a Purée of Roasted Sweet Potatoes on the side. Devilled Chicken Thighs – adapted from Suzanne Goin’s Sunday Suppers at Lucques 8 chicken thighs, trimmed of excess fat 1 medium onion, thinly sliced, @ 3/4 cup 2 tablespoons plus 1 teaspoon fresh thyme leaves 2 chiles de arbol, thinly sliced 2 dried bay leaves, crumbled 2/3 cup dry white wine mixed with 3 tablespoons white wine vinegar 1 3/4 cups Panko style breadcrumbs 4 tablespoons unsalted butter 1 1/2 tablespoons Italian parsley, chopped 1 large shallots, about 1/3 cup plus 1 tablespoon, diced 1 scant cup Dijon mustard 1 egg 1 1/2 teaspoon fresh tarragon, chopped A pinch of cayenne @ 1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste Place the chicken thighs in a large bowl or Ziplock bag along with the sliced onion, 2 tablespoons of the thyme, the sliced chiles, the bay leaves and 1/4 cup of the wine/vinegar mixture. Toss to coat the chicken well (cover with plastic wrap if in a bowl) to refrigerate overnight. Place the breadcrumbs in a large bowl. Heat a medium to large saucepan over medium heat for 1 minute, then add 3 tablespoons of butter, and cook until it’s brown and smells nutty. Using a rubber spatula, scrape the browned butter over the bread crumbs. Wait a minute until it cools slightly, then add the parsley and 1 tablespoon of the thyme, tossing well. Remove the chicken thighs from...
read moreSpanish Tortilla (not Frittata!)
I was missing my Spanish breakfasts this morning, so I took the time to make a Spanish tortilla (with some help from José Andrés). This tortilla is everywhere in Spain – on breakfast buffets, at tapas, served as appetizers. In fact, the first one I tasted in Spain was on a tapas tour in Barcelona, at the beginning of my trip. It also appeared as an hors d’ouevre at the heavy hors d’oeuvre cocktail party that closed out my tour of southern Spain. As I spied it arriving at our table on the tapas tour, I said- “Oh, the frittata” – I mean, I knew it was a common Spanish dish – and got a sideways look from my tour guide leader. “No, tortilla!”, he said. It was one of several indications I got over the next few weeks of the similarity of, but also, rivalry between, Spanish and Italian cuisine. I got an even bigger sideways look, and a bit of a sigh when I said I preferred prosciutto to Iberico ham. Ah well… I often make frittatas, but finish them in the oven, rather than on the stovetop. This method of flipping them onto the plate, and finishing them stovetop, produces a fluffier “omelette” if you will (aha! French, too!), without the addition of any cream or milk, which I often add to baked frittata mixtures. This is a simple and satisfying breakfast, and only slightly more time consuming than an American style omelette. Slices can be saved and served as a lunch or tapas style dish later in the day, too, but it’s really best served immediately out of the pan. Spanish Tortilla This recipe serves a very hearty breakfast for one, but can serve two to three, if served on a breakfast buffet, as we had most mornings on tour. My Spanish breakfasts generally included a slice of tortilla, a couple of slices of ham, a croissant, a wedge or two of cheese and maybe some fruit or tomato. 1/2 cups oil – I used a mixture of extra virgin olive oil and canola 1 medium large potato – about 1/2 pound, peeled and thinly sliced (I used a mandoline for even slices) 1/2 large brown onion, thinly sliced, about 1/2 cup 4 large eggs Kosher salt (@ 1-2 teaspoons) and freshly ground black pepper to taste Heat the oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Dip a tiny edge of a potato slice in the oil to make sure it’s hot enough. Then add half the potato slices. Work in two or three batches so that the potatoes aren’t crowded. Drain the slices on paper towels, then sprinkle them with kosher salt. Spoon about 2-3 tablespoons of the oil into a sauté pan. Add the onion slices then sauté them, over medium heat, until slightly caramelized, about 6-8 minutes. Lift them out of the oil with a strainer or slotted spoon, then place then in a bowl. Break the eggs into a mixing bowl, and whisk them until mixed but still retaining “their thick gelatinous quality” (as Jose Andres says). Whisk in about 1 teaspoon of the salt and some black pepper. Then add the potato and onion slices to the bowl. Add a tablespoon or two of the frying oil, over medium heat,...
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